Upon visiting Prague for two weeks I quickly learned that I was in for a lot of walking. I don’t think I realized just how much 20,000 steps a day is and what it can do to one’s knees that aren’t in the best shape. After 5 days and lots of walking, we decided to try out an E-bike experience. What an experience it was. My friends and I checked into the office at I love E-bikes and were quickly greeted by the friendliest local ever-Ramon. We had a very small group for this biking experience. It was just myself, Traci, Kathleen, a sweet Korean couple, and a charming young lady from New Zealand named Rebecca. I quickly connected with Rebecca as she is a reading specialist/coach in Dubai. After giving us just a few safety tips, Ramon had one thing to say, “Do you vant a helmet?” After a little discussion, he assured us we didn’t really need one. Roman promised to keep us safe and off of our feet (using electric power to help us) as we pedaled our way through the cobblestone streets of Prague. Needless to say, it was a very bumpy ride at times. Biking through the streets of Prague isn’t as easy as I thought it would be. Dodging busy trams, crowded buses, beeping cars, lots of people, and wandering dogs was a job in itself. Did I mention that there were a lot of people? As we rounded every corner with the group still intact, we would hear Roman say, “OK,Ve can go now?” I don’t think he liked having to wait on some of the slow pokes in our group which sometimes turned out to be me. The electric pedals on the bike were amazing. It was so simple to pedal our way up very steep hills with little effort. We biked a total of 12 miles and saw many interesting sites along the way. With each stop came a lot of fascinating history from our local friend. We ventured past Prague Castle, Charles Bridge, and down along the river stopping at each picturesque spot to capture our memories. As we rode around the corner to the Lennon Wall we heard many chants and cheers from the local bars and cafes where people were hanging out with their friends and watching the World Cup. Throughout the whole city we heard singing “We love France….We love France!” The atmosphere was definitely one of celebration. We eventually made our way to the Metronome and then on to the beer gardens to stop for a refreshment. The view from here was wonderful. Four hours and many laughs later, we pulled our E-bikes back onto the curb where we first started. E-bikes with a local is definitely the way to see Prague. If walking is not for you, or your knees are a little achy, then try out E-bikes! In fact, I liked it so much, I booked it again on Monday for me and my husband!
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How many times in our life does expectation not live up to reality? The fancy meal isn’t quite to our taste, the new car doesn’t change our commute, a hyped movie’s jokes fall flat. To open oneself to surprise means also to open oneself to disappointment and travel creates possibilities for the extremes of both. Think of times you’ve had your expectations disappointed and exceeded- the former is almost always more likely by virtue of our varied experience- what one person describes as divine might not be to your taste. So when a friend told me, insisted that Cesky Krumlov was his favorite part of all of the Czech Republic, I was reserved. I smiled and said I looked forward to seeing it. I filed it with the list of recommendations from online. When I walked out the door at the top of the gate at Cesky Krumlov, I immediately realized he was right, I was wrong, and this place was amazing. Cesky Krumlov is a UNESCO world heritage site roughly 2.5 hours south from Prague by bus, which leave for day trips around $80 USD. An incredibly picturesque village sits beneath an equally beautiful castle complex mounted on a cliff. Whether you prefer history, shopping, culture, relaxing in a chair or in a church, Cesky Krumlov is a perfect day or weekend trip. If you enter by hiking up the hill on the right you’ll be greeted with a breathtaking view and can wander down the castle complex to get a sense of all within. Multiple tours are offered, with special add-one for the catacombs and the theater. Our guide for the castle tour, an engaging young lady with a flat delivery and wry smile, contextualized the complex within Czech history, and you’ll recognize the Charles, Maria Theresa, et ceteras being thrown around, and gives each room character. Local English language skills seem as or more advanced than those in Prague for tourism purposes. Photography is prohibited inside but the rooms are worth a visit- richly appointed, full of revealing details, and intermittently covered by bear carcasses from their BEAR MOAT. Yes, possibly the most buried lede I will ever write: this castle has a bear moat. Bear moat! Outside the castle begins the tourist-friendly section of cobblestone streets. Shops range in taste and cost but we found all to be pleasant. Of special note are the shops specializing in Czech art, where you can take home watercolors of local scenes, abstract handbags, or the ever-present marionettes. On the main thoroughfare there were some very intersting antique stores that housed a variety of objects: US car license plates to phallic bronze statues to liquor sets that mix geometry and art. I don’t know that I’d buy any to take home, but it was a delight for the eyes. We had lunch at Sjevk, which offers authentic Czech food and plentiful Pivo (beer) at reasonable prices. Czech restaurants are very finicky about credit cards: some won’t accept them and many prefer not to split checks, so having cash here will be helpful. After our tour and light shopping, many in our group wanted to take the free (donations accepted) tour starting in downtown. As we wandered, though, I felt I’d had enough history and didn’t know I needed to hear about the limited town. I mentioned to my friend Alex, “I’m not dying to do this,” and that was all he needed to hear. “Me too! Let’s skip it.” We saw a sign offering river kayaking and decided then and there to go sign up. A quick walk up the hill brought us to the clearly marked sign at the entrance to the historic village. You might want to book this ahead of time to find the best rates and plan your day, but we found the shortest tour lasting 30 minutes to an hour to be lovely. Longer tours range from 2-8 hours. Be sure to bring CZK, we paid ~300 cash each (~$15USD). A river tour gets you away from the crowds for a bit and also reveals the architectural accomplishments hidden beneath your feet. Cesky Krumlov is not one but two systems of stone jutting above the ground, upon which were built the castle and town. You see on the top right here how the foundation melts into stone. You will go over at least two “rapids,” lock systems on the left of the river, which might get the person in front splashed but not soaked. If you keep your wits about you and stay seated you’ll be fine. My friends had not canoed in years and, aside from some shrieks at the rapids, had a great time. Hold onto those T-grips! Enjoy truly incredible views of the area and you walk ~10 minutes back to town after reaching the local brewery. This river trip was one of the best parts of my excellent day and I highly recommend you incorporate it into your visit to Cesky Krumlov. The lovely village features a cathedral that is inspiring without being imposing. Beautiful architecture and artifacts are very much in balance with the community. Mass is held often and in different languages, but we had no problem stopping in for a brief respite. This is an incredible site to spend a day at, and you’ll have fun being on your feet! Before leaving, we got one last desert and Pivo at the bar right off the bridge - go around the back to the patio. Kelsie ordered a honey cake and we immediately had to order two more for the group - don’t miss it! It’s basically impossible to take a bad photo in Cesky Krumlov. This area more than lived up to my expectations, and I hope you will find time in your visit to the Czech Republic to spend a day or two here! Na zdraví! Alternative Prague gives True PerspectiveIf you’ve ever stood near the center of a city, surrounded by variations on the same tchotchkes you’ve seen 100 other places, and wondered why you bothered to come so far to see so little, the Alternative Prague tour is for you. This tour, led by the first female graffiti artist in the Czech Republic, gives a local’s view and honest take on a city that is always beautiful but whose beauty can lull a visitor into missing the hidden depths. We met at the Powder Tower, a typical stop on any walking tour 200 yards from Old Town Square and fully surrounded by tourists, but our guide Sunny quickly made clear we would not be spending any time nearby. I had previously taken a more traditional walking tour that highlighted the medieval and Renaissance history of the Powder Tower and the Art Nouveau of the Obecni Dum concert hall. Our guide, introducing herself only by her graffiti tag “Sunny,” checked everyone’s registration then quickly launched into a tirade about the area with, “feel free to look around, although you will not see anything interesting.” This was laughable but she was absolutely serious, and explained why locals call this part of Prague “Disneyland,” from an architectural critique of the Palladium shopping center to a sociological explanation of how historical buildings in Prague are architecturally protected but after the fall of communism capitalists bought their way into permissions to construct new malls discordant with their surroundings. This was a strong introduction to our tour, but I have to admit I was weary because of my own cultural background. In the United States, authenticity is currently in vogue and extremely commercialized, with every brand trying to lay claim to a history. Often brands will promote a “heritage” brand of styles drawn from their archives and with some workmanship nod to the past while maintaining cheap, outsourced labor and disregarding any problematic history (E.g. Banana Republic promoting “pick-stitching” on it’s made-in-the-third-world suits and don’t mind what banana republic stands for, it’s just a store in the mall!). Sociologist Dalton Conley argues further that “Constant motion is a balm to a culture in which the very notion of authenticity . . . has been shattered into a thousand e-mails.” So when Alternative Prague markets itself as an “authentic experience,” with “Don't be a tourist, discover Prague through the eyes of a local,” (written in English, thereby targeting tourists almost by definition) I am intrigued but aware that that verbiage is often appropriated by corporate interests. So knowing my preconceptions, I was on guard but found that on every level the tour merited the label of “authentic.” Sunny was unafraid of sharing her personal experience, and showed us a variety of street art from Space Invader to local masterpieces. She took us to the first legal graffiti wall in Prague and explained some of the formal and informal rules of Graffiti, such as how an artist should only cover another’s work if theirs is better and how the community self regulates offensive speech. She took us to a few “hipster places,” which also set off my falsified-authenticity-alarms even as some short-haired members of our group hissed “yes!” But again Sunny was as good as her word: the patrons of the bars and artist work-spaces glared at the tourist intruders. What better way to know you’re not in in a tourist space than to be ostracized for your visible tourist nature? Obviously this is not a unqualified endorsement, but any discomfort was a pleasant relief from the “service industry smile” one is inundated with in tourist areas (cf David Foster Wallace’s “A Supposedly Fun Thing I’ll Never Do Again”).
We spent most of our time in Prague 7 but the true highlight was the end of our tour. Sunny took us to Cross Club, a three story bar completely covered in repurposed auto parts in an aesthetic half Burning Man and half steampunk. Sunny bought anyone who wanted to stay and talk a beer and what followed will probably be the highlight of my trip. Six people (Sunny from Prague, a Russian, two Costa Rican men, and a black and white American) spent two hours talking about memory, authority, Confederate commemoration, and immigration. While we didn’t all agree, everyone truly felt heard on some important issues. Sunny shared an interesting perspective that, while one could certainly critique, I will quote as well as I can: “Your country, all you have in your history is slavery. So you think of everything in terms of race. Czech people, though, we are very proud: we were only European country that did not have colonies. So when we see all these old colonies of other countries doing bad, and people leaving - we have no blood on our hands. We don’t owe anybody. You know, England, France, yes America, you took all the resources from these countries, all the people from these countries, and made them work for you and speak your language, and now you are surprised when, when things get bad, the people want to come to your country, where they know the people and know the language. We see that and think: Karma!” When a friend asked to take a photo to commemorate, Sunny demurred, saying, “I try to stay undercover for two reasons: when people know what you look like, they judge you by your looks instead of your art. People look at me and see a short, fat girl but my art has brought me all over the world. And, some of my advocacy isn’t exactly legal, so staying under the radar is helpful.” At that conversation, national boundaries melted away in a truly authentic, memorable, “alternative” way. This tour is ~$25 and runs 4 days a week. Bring walking shoes, cash for any shopping or the bar afterwards, and get ready to have fun! By: Clare Vestal I love to dance. I searched for dance classes or dance meet-ups in Prague all over the internet but didn't find any viable options. What I did find was "Yoga Session in a Gothic Cellar" on Airbnb. Yoga and dance are closely related so I was happy to find a yoga class, and as a self-proclaimed history nerd, ecstatic to hear that it was housed in a 12th century Gothic cellar. It was also conveniently located close to the Franz Kafka head statue, which is accessible directly from the B-line of the Metro. I was extremely excited to see that other members of our group, Meg and Tabitha, signed up for the class with me. Yoga is wonderful for relaxing your muscles and your mind, so I decided to schedule my yoga experience for the second week of our trip for some much-needed relaxation after taking many adventures across our trip. Sure enough, by the time Wednesday July 18 rolled around my lower back ached and my hamstrings were strained. Yoga class is exactly what I needed to get my body and mind in a healthy place. The ambiance the cellar provided only enhanced the relaxation experience. Going down into the cellar was interesting; we descended from a seemingly modern office space into a medieval cellar illuminated with string lights and lanterns. Once in the cellar it was if the hustle and bustle of Prague in the middle of tourist season didn't exist and we were in our own relaxation oasis. We were the only ones there to take the class, which made for a more intimate and relaxed experience with the instructor. Without other people around us I felt more at ease and reassured that the instructor could give us greater attention throughout the class. Our instructor, Ramona, was very caring and helpful. She made sure to ask about our experience with yoga so as to make the class an enjoyable and beneficial experience for everybody. We began class with working through isolation movements with different parts of our body. I liked this because it was a nice way to ease into a physical activity that would deeply engage a lot of different muscles. Then we went through a couple of "sun salutations". These are common forms of yoga that are series of movements that build up in complexity and which you pair with the rhythm of your breathing in order to maximize the stretch of your body. These focused mainly on the upper body. Then we moved on to the lower body where we worked through our legs and feet. At one point we laid on our backs with one leg bent and the other in the air while we circled our ankle. This worked on my especially tight hamstrings, which I desperately needed. After all of the stretches and forms, the instructor had us lie down and relax. As we did so she laid blankets on each of us to keep warm, and encouraged us to relax our whole body and close our eyes. She then came around with incense and some chimes to deepen our relaxation. Upon finishing class my mind and body felt more at ease. To add to this lovely and relaxing experience, Ramona offered us tea and water following class. While we sipped our tea we talked with Ramona about our most surprising experience in the Czech Republic. It was interesting to talk with Ramona because she grew up during the Communist regime and so was able to make some connections between our observations and the impact of Communism on the Czech Republic. I thoroughly enjoyed my experience with this yoga session in a Gothic cellar, and would love to revisit it if I travel to Prague again. I didn't take any pictures because the space seemed almost like a sanctuary and that I might tarnish it by requesting to take a picture. However I included a picture provided by the group to provide a visual for the atmosphere given by the cellar. By Tabitha Campbell “The not-to-be-underestimated effort of the ascension requires a good health constitution. Sturdy footwear is required.” That warning is displayed prominently on the website and entrance G for the Dresden Frauenkirche (“church of our lady”). After some quick mental math regarding how many miles I had hiked in the last week and a half, I decided that I was up for the challenge. Though I am only 5 feet 3 inches tall and joke that my height means I should stay close to the ground, I am glad that I pushed myself to the top of the gorgeous but intimidating Frauenkirche dome. If you are physically able to do so, you should definitely make time to tour both the church's interior and to climb the done to the observation deck. Though the ramp is steep at parts and the final ladder ascending to the observation deck is NOT for the faint of heart, once you mount the 258 steps to the top and get a glimpse of the breathtaking 360 degree view of Dresden below you, the end is more than worth the effort and cost, a mere 8 euro. To aid in your ascent, the first 87 feet up are facilitated by a quick and modern elevator. The entire climb up and down was clearly meticulously planned, with separate entrances and exits to prevent traffic jams in either direction (thank you, German efficiency!). The ramp wraps around the building two and a half times, and as you walk, you can see the ornate decorations of the church’s main dome since you are at eye level with the cherubs! You can also find inlaid pieces of rock and old stone plaques periodically along the interior walls, as these markers were saved and added to the building after it was reconstructed beginning in 1994 and concluding in 2005, 60 years after the original church was gutted by the Allied bombing of Dresden at the end of World War II. The viewing platform itself, a staggering 220 feet from the cobblestones below, is wide enough for a few people to navigate, and there are seating options if you need a moment to take in the view before heading back down. Overall, a small fee offered me unbeatable views both inside and outside the church, and provided a view of Dresden that I will never forget. By Tabitha Campbell It all started with the search for a perfect souvenir: something that would immediately remind me of Prague, something that I could share with friends and family for years to come, something that wouldn’t simply gather dust on a shelf. In pursuit of this goal, I chose to spend an evening with Tereza, a young Czech woman, who taught me how to make the most delectable, but surprisingly simple, fruit dumplings. When I arrived in Tereza’s neighborhood, Zizkov, I immediately noticed groups of boisterous young people walking together and a large park with exercise stations and graffitied statues. Walking through the cobblestone streets, Tereza explained the history and character of her neighborhood as she guided us through to her front door, an imposing, heavy wood door covered with random graffiti. Once we were settled in her apartment, she made us tea, explained the many different types of dumplings, and explained the century-old tradition behind the open-faced sandwiches we ate in her kitchen. I had never eaten a sandwich with a potato salad layer, but that starchy goodness will definitely make an appearance in my kitchen back home! Tereza guided us carefully through preparing the market-fresh plums and apricots, and walked us through weighing and adding the flour, butter, baking powder, and creamy cheese that formed the dough. As we kneaded and kneaded and kneaded some more, we discussed careers, interests, our first impressions of Prague and Czech culture, and her recommendations for the rest of our trip (in short: drink more Czech beer, try the butcher shop near the old Town square, dance clubs are better in Budapest). Although I carefully wrapped each fruit in the dough, after gently placing them in the water to boil, I realized that my sealing technique was not as effective as I had thought. Despite the six sad, water-logged dumplings that did not make it to the plate, the eighteen others that did were delicious. Tereza taught us the proper order for topping your traditional Czech fruit dumplings (sugar, poppy seeds, then butter drizzled on top, with sour cream on the side), and, five dumplings later, I left as a very satisfied, accomplished pseudo-Czech cook. Reflecting on the tram ride home with what felt like five pounds of dumplings in my lap, I realized what a special experience Tereza had provided for me. I was invited into someone's home and, over the course of two and a half hours, I learned about her life, her career, her goals, her political views, and her grandmother's dumplings. It simply doesn't get more authentic than this! by Alex Herzing Located about two and a half hours outside of Prague, Cesky Krumlov is best described as a castle and medium-sized village, with plenty to do depending on one’s interests. Upon arrival, I had virtually no knowledge of the town besides its name. One has the option of crossing under the castle arches into the village or up through the castle complex, and I chose the latter. There are a variety of courtyards to pass through before arriving at the ticket office, where you can choose from a selection of tours to take, offered in various languages. We chose the basic castle tour and waited for it to begin.
I was pleasantly surprised by the furnishings of the castle and the rich history that came with them. Our guide was knowledgeable and occasionally funny, with many useful tidbits about the many owners of the estate. One thing I loved about the tour was learning about the history of bears living in the moat below the castle, many of which have died and been made into quite shocking rugs spread throughout the home. There is still one in the moat, too! I was also captivated by the unique stories of the various owners of the home, and the different styles in which it was decorated. At one point, we walked from one room into another, and it was like the entire house had changed. The stone walls and marble furnishings were transformed to red fabric walls and gold accents in the blink of an eye. After the castle, we began our walk through the town, passing by artisan shops and small restaurants. We chose one named Svejk that served traditional Czech food and sat ourselves in the wood-paneled and wood-furnished establishment. My friends got items like schnitzel, pork ribs, and turkey with gravy. In the spirit of adventure, I ordered beef heart with dumplings. It was great—doused with gravy and not as tough as I might have thought. This was one of the only places we could pay with card (besides the castle) in the small village. From there, my group split up to choose either a free tour that began in the town square or a boating adventure. Other things to do were shopping or the Egon Schiele museum, which not only showcases the artist, but also houses other unique exhibits (currently Czech women artists). The rafting company that we chose to boat with offered a variety of rafting experiences with many different sizes of rafts, so we chose a short trip around the village (~30 minutes) in a three-person inflatable canoe. At the dock, we put our items in a waterproof bag, suited up in lifejackets, and got in the boat, where we were pushed off with an abrupt “bye!” We were entitled to paddle at our own pace, though it may have been useful to receive better paddling instructions beforehand. The sights were beautiful and surreal from the river, as it was a gorgeous day to circle the city! Thrills came in the form of two “rapids” that had to be entered to avoid more dangerous main sections of the water. We found ourselves laughing and smiling as we passed under bridges and snapped photos of ourselves and the castle. Once disembarking, it was only a short walk back to the company’s headquarters. We stopped at a riverside café shortly after to enjoy a pilsner and a honey cake. And wow, the honey cake! We shared one piece and enjoyed it so much that we had to order another. Though the sun made us very warm, we were never too hot, and enjoyed the brief rest before our last bit of time in Cesky Krumlov. Lastly, we stopped in a few shops to see the offerings. Hand-painted bags, carved wooden toys, and unique marionettes were available for purchase, and we also stopped in a gem shop to see all of the stones. I purchased a bright opalite ring, though in retrospect I wish I had purchased moldavite, a meteorite-formed stone that is apparently unique to Cesky Krumlov. There is much more shopping to be done, and I know that we only skimmed the surface. Overall, I had a phenomenal time in Cesky Krumlov, and I feel grateful that we got to spend the time there that we did. I would highly recommend that one spends a full day there, and to pursue what you are interested in. From my experience, it is hard to go wrong. And for your own sake, bring cash. by Kelsie Adloo Maybe it’s because of the excellent company. Maybe the excitement of being in a new city. Maybe the relaxation that comes with visiting a beer spa earlier in the day. Whatever the reason, seeing Don Giovanni at the National Marionette Theatre is one of my favorite theatrical experiences to date. -- Alex and Michael join me, walking into Old Town Prague from our stay at the beer spa. We purchase our tickets, take our seats in the middle of the theatre, and quickly read through our English program to refresh our understanding of the show’s synopsis. With the opera sung completely in Italian, this skimming of the plot is very helpful and makes for an unbelievably entertaining show. Don Giovanni was written by Mozart specifically to be performed in the city of Prague at the National Theatre of Bohemia. The National Marionette theatre takes this honored opera and blends it with the Czech past-time of marionettes to produce a hilarious spectacle. When the show opens with a Mozart puppet popping up out of the music pit, I’m not sure what to expect from the rest of the night. The overture is long, and puppet Mozart sort of fumbles here and there and everywhere. I glance over to see if Alex and Michael are regretting following me here. However, once the singing begins (a recording of famous performers of the past) I am immediately drawn in. Leporello anxiously waits for his suave and womanizing master, Don Giovanni. After his entrance and attempted wooing of Donna Anna, Don Giovanni kills Donna Anna’s father and pursues other women. This is all dramatic enough, but the addition of marionettes makes it all the more absurd. The show is publicized as fun for all ages, but this is only because the sexual escapades of Don Giovanni seem silly when played by a wooden creature, and children can’t understand the vulgarity of the opera. Still, I’m not too surprised when the family of six in front of us gets up to leave after a few arias. “Look at how big their hands are,” Alex whispers to me. “I know, right?” I respond, not even considering that the puppeteers are playing with our sense of perspective. The three of us laugh as we watch the marionettes bounce around the stage, Don Giovanni making a fool of himself all the while. I almost forget that the puppets are controlled by humans when a puppet falls down in defeat and the puppeteer's hands hang above, mimicking their character’s fatigue. I start to watch the hands that move up above. There is almost as much action up here as there is on the stage. I love watching the fluid movements of the puppeteers' fingers, playing their marionettes like instruments. As the show nears its finale, we are all stunned when statue suddenly comes to life and starts walking downstage. Suddenly Alex, Michael, and I realize that we’ve been tricked this whole time. The statue is a human in costume. Only then do I notice how small the “life-size” puppets actually are. Soon Leporello's puppeteer becomes annoyed, and wants to hurry the show up. While the other characters belt their wooden hearts out, this puppeteer starts hanging up the puppets in an attempt to speed things up. The audience chuckles as puppets come back to life only to be silenced once more. When the show ends, all of the puppeteers emerge from behind the scenes to take their bows. The National Marionette’s version of this show hasn’t been touched since it debuted in 1991, and I can understand why. Don Giovanni plays almost every night. I highly recommend it to anyone who loves the theatre and a good laugh. --Traci Barger (with additional photos courtesy of Genevieve Stearns)
After a few days of hitting Old Town, New Town and Lesser Town it feels good to stretch the soul in other districts of Prague. I was on a mission to find pickles and a Chicago dog at Mr. Hot Dog so I had to get to Holešovice, also known as Prague 7.
Sidebar: I cannot help but think of The Hunger Games every time I refer to Prague's districts. Too bad the fictional District 7 in the book's main industry was lumber because the history of Holešovice has ties to agriculture and farming. Had they been similar, it would have made for a very cool parallel universe. Nevertheless, getting away from the throngs of cameras with legs on Charles Bridge and the smoke on the sidewalks in the tourist areas, Prague 7 was a respite. I encourage you to explore the other numbers in Prague. As Kami advices on her blog, "focus on regular districts, where the life goes by at its own pace." I found Holešovice to be exactly that, which is what I needed after so many days spent in City Center. Actually, I left wanting more and with more questions than when I arrived. I take that as a sign of a good neighborhood. Here are 7 things I would go back to explore even further. I did not mark them on my map, but they were all within Prague 7 and would not be hard to locate again. Just start at the Art Wall along the north side of the Vltava in Holešovice. Maybe I will see you there. -TM |